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VENICE: The Horses of St. Marks. 



Europe on U a Day 



Being an account of an Expeidjnental Tiip to Eiirope of 

75 Days Diiration, taken by a Member of the 

Club and his wife, at an Expense of 

$300.00 each, or $-1-. 00 per Day. 



THE ROLLING STONE CLUB, 

BELL BUILDING 

MEDINA, NEW YORK. 



(LIBRARY of QONGBESS 
Tw(^Ooples Received 

JAN 2 »906 

Copyright Entry 

, 'SlASS ex. XXc. MO 
^ COPY B. 



ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 

The Club tenders its grateful acknowledgements to 
Oelrichs & Co., General Agents of the North German 
Lloyd Steamship Company, for the loan of half tone 
illustrations; to W. L. Terhune, Esq., of Boston, and to 
the Editor and publishers of Good Housekeepbig, Spring- 
field, Mass., for the reproductions of kodak snap shots, 
made by the writer on this trip, and first used to illus- 
trate technical travel articles which appeared in Mr. 
Terhune 's publication, The Recorder, and an article by 
the writer on "European Pensions" which was printed 
in the June, 1905 number of Good Hoiisekeeping. 



COPYRIGHTED 1904 AND 1906 BY CHARLES NEWTON HOOD. 



WHY? 

This little book is not intended as a guide to general 
travel in Europe, or even to the points visited. It is 
not intended to advertise anything or anybody; still, any 
practical thing which we have found good, we have 
mentioned in detail, without vagueness, for by far the 
hardest and most exasperating part of planning a trip 
like this, is in trying to find out who can tell what you 
want to know. This information we have tried to give, 
— and it represents a large amount of investigation, — 
in connection with a strictly practical outline of an ex- 
perimental trip. 

We would state in advance that we have performed 
no feat in making a trip like this on $4.00 per day, for 
if we had, this little book would be of no value, and 
would not have been printed. All we have attempted 
to demonstrate, is what the average lover of travel can 
do, easily, on a modest appropriation. 

"A. ROLLINGSTONE." 



HOW IT CAME ABOUT 

The experimental tour grew out of a discussion, 
among the members of the "Rolling Stone Club," as 
to the expense of a foreign tour, with no self denial, no 
careful counting of pennies, yet, avoiding useless spend- 
ing of money on unnecessarily luxurious traveling, or 
living. 

The assertion was made that a tourist who wished to 
make an appropriation of vacation money go as far as 
possible, could, by a little planning, keep the expenses 
of a perfectly comfortable trip down to $4.00 per day. 

The discussion became warm, many members deem- 
ing the thing impossible without "roughing it," and 
finally, it was determined to make a practical experi- 
ment. 

The writer and his wife were selected for the trip, 
not because of any especial fitness, or experience, but 
because they seemed to meet most of the conditions as 
average travelers, — and were willing. 

THE CONDITIONS. 

Two persons. Both Americans. 

Neither to have visited any part of Europe before. 

No special facilities, not available to any traveler, to 
be enjoyed, and no use or mention of the fact that an 
experimental trip was being attempted, or that these 
articles were to be written, to be made to any one with 
whom dealings were had. 

While following beaten paths of European travel, the 
tour was outlined to include glimpses of as many im- 

—6— 



portant cities as could be visited comfortably, in the 
time allotted, 75 days. 

The entire cost, two persons. New York back to New 
York, to be under $600, or $4.00 per day each. 

The Itinerary. The route decided upon was as 
follows: 

New York, steamer direct to Naples, rail to Rome, 
Florence, Venice, Milan, Lake Como, St. Gothard Tun- 
nel, Lucerne, Basle, Paris, Rouen, London, Stratford- 
on-Avon, Chester, Liverpool, Philadelphia, New York. 

It was freely intimated by facetious members of the 
club that the travelers, on returning, would be thorough- 
ly qualified to write a book on "How to take a $600 
Foreign Trip on $946.27," yet, the thing was done and 
was done easily, in complete comfort, with no cutting 
out of reasonable gratuities and with no mean, hamper- 
ing exasperating petty economies. 

How it was done has been asked so many times that 
it is here set down, with as many details as practicable, 
for the benefit of members of the club, or other lovers 
of travel, who wish to make their money take them as 
far as possible, if it can be done without loss of either 
self respect, comfort, or enjoyment. 

What We Have Included : Every actual neces- 
sary expense, including transportation, board, cab fares, 
tips, admission fees, theatres, lunches, fruit, papers and 
magazines, laundry; in fact everything that did not con- 
stitute a purchase. We have not included souvenirs 
purchased, any of the umbrellas which we bought and 
forgot here and there through Europe, or the expense 
incident to taking about 200 kodak pictures, as these are 

—7— 



purely personal matters and could be entirely eliminated 
if necessary. To kodakers we would say, however, 
that film is considerable dearer in Italy and France than 
at home, and it is much cheaper and better to take with 
you about what you are likely to use. 

Season: The season selected was Spring, at about 
the time that "The Season" was closing in Italy. We 
followed the early summer up through Switzerland, 
France and England, and came home while "winter 
rates" were still fashionable on the North Atlantic 
steamers, and before the rush of returning summer 
tourists. 

Had the trip been begun in the other economic seas- 
on, autumn, the route would have been reversed, begin- 
ning in England and ending in Italy, so that the warm 
weather could have been pursued southward. 
PBELIMINABY. 

Passports. We never found the slightest need for 
a passport. We never showed it, except once, when 
we were granted admission to the Hon house at the 
Paris Zoo, on a day that the same was supposed to be 
closed, by exhibiting the outside of the document to the 
guard. Still, one feels safer to have one. We wrote 
to Passport Bureau, State Department, Washington, D, 
C, for passport application blank, filled it out and signed 
it before a Notary With Seal, forwarded application to 
Washington with $1.00 and passport was returned 
promptly. One answered for my wife and myself. 

Guide Books. We used Baedeker tempered by 
Rolfe. Baedeker's is the most complete, reliable and in- 
dependent guide. Rolfe's "Satchel Guide," ($1.50, net, 

Houghton, MifHin & Co., Boston), revised annually, is 

—8— 



an admirable guide to guides, gives all of the leading 
things in a nutshell, which may, if desired, be looked 
up more in detail in Baedeker. To keep well within 
the limit set us, we purchased some of our Baedeker's 
second hand, and though they answered fairly well, we 
regretted it. A guide book cannot be too fresh. 

The Baedeker Guides we used, (Charles Scribner & 
Co. N. Y. ), were: 

Italy, Southern $1 80 

Italy, Central and Rome 2 25 

Italy, Northern 2 40 

Paris and Environs 1 80 

London and Environs 1 80 

Traveler's Manual of Conversation, in English, German, 

French and Italian, with vocabulary, etc 90 

Any large book store will furnish all of the above 
(including Rolfe), for $11.05 and express charges. The 
manual of conversation isn't of much use except as an 
amusement. 

"Going Abroad? Some Advice," by Robert Luce, 
(50c. paper, 75c. cloth, The Clipping Bureau Press, 68 
Devonshire St-, Boston), is about the best thing we 
know of in the way of general advice about an European 
tour. I read it after I got back, and wished devoutly, 
that I had had it before I started. A new edition has 
just been printed, — 300 pages packed with interesting 
information. 

We cannot recommend to highly a subscription to 
the Women's Rest Tour Association of 11 Pinckney 
street, Boston, Mass. In fact we would consider this 
almost one of the indispensables, especially for ladies 
traveling alone. Their list of pensions is probably the 
most reliable and convenient published, and they have 

—9— 



other admirable facilities. The membership is $3 for 
the first year. 

There is a "World's Union of Pensions" representing 
a first class pension in nearly every large city in Europe. 
This list is also very desirable and may be obtained 
by addressing Miss Mary Rosch, 10-1 Schelling strasse, 
Munich, Bavaria. Baedeker's lists are also reliable 
and are carefully revised annually. 

"Holiday resorts and Recommended Addresses," is 
a list issued by The Teachers Guild of Great Britain 
and Ireland, 74 Gower street, W. C, London, England. 
Price Is, Id, postpaid, (27c). (An American Express 
money order is the cheapest way to remit small amounts 
abroad). This list is not as good for the American 
tourist as the Women's Rest Tour list, but is worth 
having and has 150 pages of pensions, hotels, lodgings 
and hospices in all parts of the world. 

Hotel Coupons. We. bought in advance of Thos. 
Cook and son, (Main office, 261 Broadway, New York), 
what are called hotel coupons. These are good at lists 
of hotels in all of the principal cities of Europe at fixed 
prices, with breakfast, lunch, dinner and bed on four 
separate coupons at from $1.85 per day to $2.50 per day, 
according to the hotel. We took along some of the 
$1.85 sort and a few of a special $2.00 sort with three 
coupons good, at somewhat more important hotels, for 
evening dinner, lodging and breakfast only. These 
coupons are very convenient for short stays, and obviate 
bargaining and extortion. Unused coupons are re- 
deemed in London or New York, less 10 per cent. 

Funds. We took our funds in American Express 
Co. travelers cheques of $20 denomination which can 

—10— 



be cashed almost anywhere and cost 50 cents per $100. 
We cashed them usually at the tourist agencies. 
** Notes and Facts of Intei^est to Travelers," 

is a booklet issued free by the American Express Co. 
(65 Broadway, N. Y.) It contains much useful and 
interesting information and a cable code adequate for 
any tourist. Take one with you, leave one at home. 
A cable emergency may arise. 

Railroads in Europe. Before we left America 
we purchased of Cook & Son a second class ticket 
covering transportation from Naples to London via all 
of the cities of our itinerary. This came in a little book 
of coupons, was good for stop overs anywhere along 
the route, and was mighty convenient. We simply out- 
lined where we wanted to go and the tickets were 
especially made up for us. They cost $40.80 each. 
This being "Cook-booked," as it were, obviated practi- 
cally all buying of tickets of foreign ticket sellers, and 
saved us some money. 

Baggage. We took a steamer trunk as far as Naples 
and left in it all of our heavy coats, wraps and extra 
sea clothing. The North German Lloyd steamer com- 
pany shipped it around by steamer to London where it 
was stored until our arrival, and was delivered in our 
room at a total cost of $3.65. Heavy baggage is not 
carried free by -Continental railroads. A grip, small 
satchel and a canvas "hold-all," were all that we carried 
from Naples to London. A lot of hand baggage is but 
little trouble as there are plenty of porters to handle it 
at, what seem to Americans, ridiculously modest fees. 

Clothing. Excellent directions respecting appropri- 
ate clothing are given by Rolfe, Luce and also in the 

—11— 



literature of the Women's Rest Tour Association, which 
we followed in the main. A. Rollingstone, for himself, 
desires to state, however, that he neglected to carry a 
black coat on the Continent and regretted it very much. 
Any sort of a black coat would have done for dinner, 
theatre and other evening wear and there is a separate, 
long humorous story respecting his desperate, but futile 
efforts to get something of the sort, ready made, in 
Naples, Rome, Milan, Venice and Basle, which cannot 
be included here. 

PBELIMINABY EXPENSE. 

Passport $ 1 25 

Traveler's Checks 3 00 

Two steamer tickets, New York to Naples 110 00 

•Two "Circular" R. R. Tickets, 2nd class, Naples to 

London 81 60 

Guide Books 11 60 



Total $206 95 

Each $103 48 



NEW YORK. 

The expense account of the trip was to begin when 
we arrived in New York, which we did two days before 
the boat sailed, as it happened, and as there is nothing 
novel to write about expenses in New York, we will 
simply give totals: 

Two days in New York. 

Hotel $ 9 00 

Theatres 6 00 

Baggage transfer, street car fare, etc . .-. 1 80 

Total $16 80 

—12— 



THE START 

We sailed on May 2d, per steamer Weimar of the 
North German Lloyd Line, (Oelrichs & Co., General 
Agents, 5 Broadway, N. Y.) The Weimar zzxxx^diOxAj 
two classes of passengers, cabin and steerage. The 
rate to Naples in state room reserved entire for us was 
$55.00 each, and the accommodations, meals, service, 
etc., were excellent. 

Second saloon on the great ocean liners is good 
enough for anybody, not too burdened with money and 
social ideas, but, as a general rule, first class on a two 
class steamer is rather to be desired than second cabin 




From XLrtb German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get Tlicie- 

BRIDGE DECK SCENE. 



—13- 



on a more pretentious steamer, and we followed that 
plan both going and returning. 

We engaged our berths long in advance, direct from 
the company, and this is always a good idea, particu- 
larly where especial locations or two-berth state rooms 
are desired. We did not engage our return passage 
before leaving America, although this should have 
been done, as it assures good return accommodations 
and also a reduction of ten per cent, on the cost of re- 
turn passage. 

On the Weimar there chanced to be but about 40 cab- 
in passengers, and if we 40 congenial people had been 
guests on a private yacht we could not have been 
made more comfortable, or had a jollier time on that 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 

ROCK OF GIBRALTAR. 



—14— 



delightful voyage. It was a bit cold and pretty rough 
for the first few days, but after that the voyage was 
simply a delight. 

The cabin passengers were classed as "Second Cab- 
in" on the tickets, but there was no first cabin so we 
were the best there were. It reminded us of the 
famous Picck dialogue: 

Newsboy — "Evenin' Poiper! Secon' Edition!" 
Gentleman — "I would like the first edition, please." 
"Ain't no first edition." 

"Why, my son, there must be a first edition, or 
how could there be a second edition?" 
"Aw, go on! Guess you don't know New York 
Evenin' poipers." 

We expected only ordinary, plain, substantial living, 
but were surprised to find a table not only abundant 
but luxurious. Here is a sample dinner menu: 

Bouillon a la Roderer 

Fried Calves' Brains, Sauce Ravigotte 

Round of Beef, Madeira Sauce 

Carrots, Mashed potatoes 

Roast turkey with lettuce 

Pears, Roman salad 

Ice cream, Pastry 

Fruit, Coffee 

Gorgonzola Cheese. 

This was served in seven courses and the service 
and cooking were excellent. Breakfasts and lunches 
averaged fully as well. In addition, bouillon and sand- 
wiches, at 10 a. m., and lemonade and coffee at 4 p. m., 
were served on deck, with tea or coffee in the dining 
room at 9:30 p. m., and unlimited fruit at any time. 
We learned, later, that both the German lines are fam- 
ous for their good living. 

—15— 



Fr. von Letten Petersen, the Commander, and his 
staff of officers were untiring in their efforts to make 
the passengers comfortable and give them a good 
time, another feature for which the German lines are 
said to be exceptionally famous. A ball on deck, on 
one glorious, moonlight night on the Mediterranean, 
was one of the captain's surprises, with the great prom- 
enade deck enclosed and gay with flags and colored 
electric lights. 

It is a hardship for the writers to deny themselves 
the pleasure of reviewing the sights and enjoyments of 
that voyage of 14 days. Of the beautiful Azore Islands, 
Grand old Gibraltar, and the glimpses of the coasts of 
Spain, Africa and Sardinia, but this little book is to be 
strictly practical, and any apparent lack of enthusiasm 
must not be laid up against us, for the enthusiasms 
have all been eliminated. 

We enthusiastically wrote down all of our impres- 
sions, and descriptives, our raptures, our delights and 
our entrancements, and then, cheerfully, cut them all 
out again, for we assume that anybody who is interest- 
ed in this experiment at all, has imbibed enthusiasm 
from some of the hundreds of other better sources, and 
reads this book because he or she wants to know, sim- 
ply what the title indicates that it tells. 

Our extra expenses on board included: Deck chairs, 
rented on the steamer, $2.00; Benefit concert, $2.00; 
and these tips: Deck steward, $2.00; stewardess, $2.00; 
state room boy, $1.00; table waiter, $2.00. Total, 
$11.00 or $5.50 each. We guaged our tips by about 
what others were giving and, so far as we could learn, 
gave about as much as anybody and more than some. 

—16— 



Other lines having Mediterranean services are: 

The Hamburg-American Line, (35 Broadway, N. Y.), 
$70 up, 1st cabin and $55 second cabin. 

LaVeloce Line, (Bolognesi, Hartfield & Co., 29 Wall 
St., N. Y.) One cabin only $55. 

Cunard Line, (29 Broadway, N. Y.) 1st cabin $70 up; 
2d cabin, $50 up. 

Anchor Line, (17 Broadway, N. Y.) one class only, 
$60. 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There.' 

NAPLES. 



—17— 




NAPLES. 
Street scene. Snap s^ot from a cab. 



White Star Line, (73 Broadway, N. Y.), 1st class $75 
up; 2d. cabin, $50 during certain months only. 

Fabre Line, (33 Broadway, N. Y.) 1st cabin only, 
$75 up. 

Austro-American Line, (C. B. Richard & Co., 31 
Broadway, N. Y.) 1st cabin, $55; 2d cabin, $45. 

—18— 



NAPLES, (Napoli). 

"See Naples and, — " ride, 
For the cab fare is only fourteen cents. 

Before we reached Naples, there was a good deal of 
poorly concealed nervousness, agitating some of the 
tourists who were visiting a foreign city for the first 
time, but the worry was uncalled for. It was very easy. 

A swarm of picturesque landing boats came out to 
the Weimar, but the steamship company furnished a 
little steam tender which landed us, free of charge, close 
by the custom house. 

A "Man from Cooks" was on hand to render every 
assistance, and we were not detained long before our 




Special Delivery Messenj^er 



NAPLES. 
—19— 




Snap shot from our pension window. 



NAPLES. 




Over the way from our pension. 



NAPLES. 



—20— 



hand luggage was given a blue chalk mark, without 
examination and we passed on to the street. 

We had the addresses of several pensions. Now, for 
those who don't chance to understand, thoroughly, I 
want to say that a "pension" is a sort of boarding house, 
but totally unlike any boarding house I ever saw in this 
country. Some of them are more like private hotels. 
From our experience with them, the general impression 
left, is, that about half of them are located in old pala- 




The Pension Pinto- Storey. 



NAPLES. 
—21— 



ces, with marble floors, and when 3 ou dress in the 
morning you learn to hop nimbly from rug to rug. 
Most pensions will take you for a day, a week, a month, 
a year or a life time, and the price charged at the better 
class of them is about half what the hotel rates would 
be. The meals are usually excellent. The lunches and 
dinners are served in all the way from five to seven 
courses, with meats, vegetables and fruit in abundance. 
The meats we expected to find poor and tough, I don't 
know why, but we did; but we found them superb every- 
where. The rooms were neat, clean and comfortable 
and the attendance perfectly satisfactory. One gets 
nearer to the people, living in a pension than in a hotel. 




Old stepping stones at a street crossing. 



POMPEII. 



—22— 



Our list included: 



Pension Pinto-Storey, 33 Parco Margherita, 6 francs and up. 
Pension Maurice, No. 3, Via Partenope, 6 francs. 
Pension Muller, No. 4, Via Partenope, 7 francs. 
Pension Baker, No. 10, Via Caracciolo, 6 to 8 francs. 
Pension Quisisana, Parco Margherita, 6 to 9 francs. 



We wrote, plainly, on a card, the full address of the 
first one on the list, handed it to a cab driver and held 
out a silver franc, (20 cents). He held up two fingers 
and put on a pleading expression, but we shook our 
heads, firmly, and he motioned us to get in. Thus our 
first bargain was made, easily, neither of us knowing 
the other's language. In a short time, and after a drive 
which was highly interesting to Americans for the first 
time in a foreign city, we were at the Pinto-Storey. 
The place proved to be good in every way. Miss Pinto 
spoke excellent English, and in much less than an hour 
from the time we entered the custom house, we were 
thoroughly at home in our apartments. We were on 
the second floor, as Americans would know it, and our 
windows overlooked a quaint old monastery garden, 
and being well up on the hillside we had a fine view of 
the bay. 



—23- 



The rate quoted was 6 francs each, (1.20), for every- 
thing included (Room, Continental breakfast of bread 
and coffee or chocolate only, luncheon and evening 
dinner). We chose the latter and were made exceed- 
ingly comfortable. 

We had the cab wait, and, had the pension been full, 
or unsatisfactory, or if we had not succeeded in getting 
a fair rate, we would have driven to the next address on 
our list and so on until we were suited. The whole 
thing was ridiculously easy. 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet *' How to Get There.' 
POMPEII. 



We stayed five days in Naples and could have enjoyed 
a month. 

We did not try to visit all of the show places, but 
took time to enjoy all that we saw. 

Cab fares are very cheap. Per course, for 1, 2 or 
even 3 persons, only 70 centimes, (14 cents). By the 

—24— 







CAPRI. 

hour, 1 franc, 50 centimes, (30 cents), for the first hour, 
and one franc 20 centimes, (24 cents) each additional 
hour. Everything is reckoned in francs and centimes. 
The franc ("lira" in Italian, but they understand "franc" 
just as well), is practically 20 cents of our money, and 
it takes 100 centimes to make one franc. This makes 
exceedingly easy figuring for an American, as the cop- 
per coins are 5 and 10 centimes each, or 1 and 2 cents 
of our money. When business is dull, cab drivers will 
accept even less than tariff. For instance we took a 
four hour cab drive arouund the city, bargaining in ad- 
vance, for one franc per hour, and one franc tip at the 
end. Think of getting a cab for that in New York. 
Ordinary cabby's tip 2 to 10 cents. 



Street car fares are 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 or 35 centimes, 
(2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 cents) according to the distance. The 
cars stop at sign posts labeled Fermata. 

We went to Pompeii for a day. Railroad fare, round 
trip, 2nd class, 54 cents each. Admission to the ruins 
and museum with guide, 40 cents each. A trip by 
steamer to the Island of Capri, including the "Blue 
Grotto," and a carriage ride up the mountain to Capri 
village and still higher up to Anacapri, cost, all told, 
only $2.50 each. The pension furnished nice lunches 
for each of these excursions. 

Mail: We had our mail sent to some cities care 
Cook & Son, or the American Express. In Naples we 
had it sent Poste restante, (General Delivery as we know 
it). This we found at the General post office, (Posta 
Grande), which was once a palace and looks the part 
yet. The Poste restante windows are around an open 
court. The best way, always, in calling for mail in a 
strange place, whether you know the language or not, 
is to have your names plainly written or printed on 
cards to hand in to the clerk. In the main we think 
that the tourist agencies or the American Express 
handle the mail best, but we had no trouble whatever, 
Poste restante. 

It is hard to resist the beautiful coral, lava and tor- 
toise shell articles, which are cheaper and more beauti- 
ful here than at any other place on earth, and it is an 
absolute impossibility for ladies to resist fine kid gloves 
of excellent quality at 1 1-2 francs, (30 cents) a pair. 
Men's kid gloves are about 60 cents a pair. 

The drinking water we found good all through Italy 
and Switzerland. 

—26— 



Leaving Naples after 4 days we tipped each of our 
table waiters 2 francs, the maid 2 francs, and the porter 
1 franc and they all seemed satisfied. Then we missed 
the train to Rome and stayed a day at the Hotel Naples, 
on our Cook's coupons, at $1.85 per day each and found 
everything satisfactory. 

Laundry work is done in connection with all hotels 
and pensions, very quickly, and at rates about two- 
thirds as high as average American prices. 

Ask for la blanchisseuse, in French, la lavandaja, in 
Italian. We found that the work was well done, with 
care, and that it was returned when promised. At one 
pension, a clergyman with whom we got acquainted 
had some laundry to send out. He rang for a maid- 
She came. Then the gentleman gravely tied a towel 
around his waist, turned a chair upside down for a wash- 
board, took a piece of his linen and solemnly went 
through a detailed pantomime of wash day. The maid 
watched him in wonder for a time, when she said in 
excellent English, "Is it that monsieur would to have 
some laundry accomplished?" 

Five Days at Naples. 

Pension, 4 days @ $1 20 ^ o ?n 

Tips 

Cabs, trams, railroad and boats 5 68 

Admission fees -*- ^^ 

Papers and postage °^ 

Theatre ^% 

Laundry, fruit, etc ^ *^ 

1 day at hotel -^ '^ 

Total $26 61 

Each $13 60 

Each per day ^ 2 66 

—27— 



ROME, (Roma.) 

You don't speak their language and they 
Don't know yours, but They want your 
Good money so badly, that, someway they 
. Manage to understand what You want. 

We took a cab to the train. Taking a cab on the 
Continent, and especially in Italy is so cheap that the 
inclination to do so should seldom be resisted, as it 
saves so much time and vitality, and costs so little. 

The railroad station is Stazione Centrale (Say it Stat- 
zee-o-nee Sen-trah-lee. That isn't exactly right, but if 
you say it very fast you'll think it is, and the cab drivers 
and street car conductors will understand it.) 




A Section of the Culosscum. 



ROME. 
—28— 




The Scala Sancta. Worshippers ascending the sacred staircase on their knees. 

ROME 



The Italian railroad station porters are a cheap lux- 
ury. One will rush out to meet you, grab your hand 
luggage, one, two, three pieces, it doesn't matter, tell 
him where you're going, or show him your ticket, hold 
up one finger for first-class or two fingers for second 
class, and he'll trot away with you, find you the best 

—23— 



available compartment, on the right train, stow your 
baggage for you and be satisfied with about 30 or 40 
centimes, ( 6 or 8 cents). It's the same at the destina- 
tion station. The porters are called Facchini in Italy, 
and if one doesn't come promptly into the car, stick 
your head out of the window and yell something that 




Frum North Cicnnan Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 
RUINS OF THE FORUM, ROJJIE. 

sounds like "Fat Sheeny! Fat Sheeny!" said very fast, 
and one of the porters will surely appear, carry your 
luggage to the cab, tuck you in, and help to get you 
started right. They are a great comfort, and they are 
so willing and so cheap. 

Second class compartments on the best trains we 
found very good indeed, in Italy. Corridor cars are 
run on all of the fast trains, which are about the same 
as our vestibuled compartment car trains in form, and 
with coaches fully as good as our ordinary passenger 
coaches, and very comfortable. The difference between 
first and second class seems very slight. The main 

—30— 




Side entrance to Pension Boos. Note the street "shoe mender," an Italian lad 
twelve years old. Doing a fairly good job too. 

ROME. 



difference that I could see was that the first-class com- 
partments had white tidies on the backs and arms of 
the seats and the second class didn't. Night traveling 
is unnecessary, the jumps are so short, and day travel, 
especially to a "First tripper," is mighty interesting- 

The little, yellowed covered 20 centime time tables, 
which can be purchased at any station, answer well 
enough, are handy, and can be purchased frequently. 
Time is reckoned from midnight to 24 o'clock. A train 
leaving at 17:30 seems odd at first, but one soon gets 
to recognize it as 5:30 in the afternoon. 

Lunch on the dining car cost us 80 cents each. The 
dining cars do not compare with ours, and it is much 
pleasanter to buy the baskets of lunch with fruit and a 

—31— 



little bottle of wine, which are for sale at many stations, j 
at modest prices. < 

We were surprised at the excellence of the Italian 
railroads, in management, safeguarding, service, road- i 
bed, speed and comfort. At any rate on the express ■ 
trains. 

We had grown wise, and at the Rome station we 
hired our cab by the hour at 2 francs (40 cents). The 
first pension we drove to did not suit, so we did not 
stop. Others on the list were: 

Pension Boos, Palazzo Rospigliosi Via del Quirinale 43, 
(In summer 6 francs, in winter 7). 

Pension des Anglais, Piazza Barberini, (6 to 8 fr.) 

Pension du Sud, via Lombardia, Porta Pinciana, (6 to 8 
francs). 

Mrs. Jaselli-Owen, 12 Piazza Barberini, (6 francs up). 

Mr. D'Amico Johnson, 141 via Sicilia, (6 to 8 francs). 

Pension Lucarni, 5 via Gregoriana, (6 francs). 

The Boos proved all right, Mr. Boos and his son both 
spoke English and we were established for a week, all 
included, at 6 francs each per day, with 30 cents each, 
extra, per week, for electric light. It was exceeding- 
ly comfortable. Plentiful table. Very central. 

We stayed six days in Rome. Six v/eeks or six 
months or six years would not be too long, and we'd 
feel, even then, probably, as we did after our little stay, 
that we had merely glimpsed its glories. 

Cabs for 1 or 2 persons 1 franc, (20 cents), a drive, 
or per hour, 1 to 3 persons, two francs, inside the walls. 
About 60 cents an hour outside the walls. Admission 
fees very small, many places free. Trams and other 
information about same as Naples. Pearls, turquoises 
and, of course, Roman silk sashes and blankets are 
best purchased here. 

—32— 



SUMMARY. 

Pension, 6 days $ 15 30 

Cabs and cars ■ 7 16 

Admission fees and tips 2 44 

Sundries: papers, postage, fruit, ices, etc 2 67 

Total $27 57 

Each $13 78 

Bacli per day 2 29 

FLORENCE, (Firenze) 

next. Superb ride by train through the beautiful "Hill 
Towns," so beautifully quaint that they make you long 
to get off at every station for a stay of weeks. We 
really should have stopped over to see at least one of 
them. Orvieto would have been the most convenient. 
Cab and street car fares about the same. Our list of 
pensions included: 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " H w to Get There." 

PONTE VECCHIO, FLORENCE. 

—33— 



Pension Giachino, 13 Piazza d' Azeglio, (6 francs.) 

Pension Lucchesi, 16 Lung Arno Zecca Vecchia, (7 francs 

and up.) 
Pension Sammuri, 6 Lung Arno della Borsa. (6 francs 

and up.) 
Pension Lottini, 6 Lung Arno Corsini, (6 francs and up.) 
Simi's Pension, 2 Lung Arno delle Grazie, (6 to 9 francs.) 




The Pension Lucchesi. 



FLORENCE. 



The Giachino seemed good, but it was full and, in an 
evil moment, (it was raining) instead of driving to the 
next on our list, we allowed an officious porter to guide 
us to a pension of his own recommending. It was not 
had, but in a city boasting the best pensions in the 
world, it would not do, and paying a bonus of one full 
day, we drove to the Lucchesi and found one of the 
most delightful little private hotels of our journeyings, 
at 7 francs, (1.40), each, all included. 

Florence is a dream. We came for three days and 
stayed five and dragged ourselves away unwillingly. 
The Pitti, Uffizi, Baptistery, Campanile and Cathedral, 

—34— 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There.' 
THE BARGELLO, FLORENCE. 



the palaces, the drives and all the beauty of it make no 
stay seem too long. Yet, it can be done in a day, and 
we saw it being done that way more than once. The 
Baptistery is noted for its beautiful bronze doors. We 
were standing one day before the pair by Ghiberti, 
which Michael Angelo said were worthy to be the gates 
of Paradise, when a fine equipage whirled up. Two 
exceedingly prosperous looking Americans with their 
wives occupied the seats. 

"These are the doors," droned the guide on the box 
seat, "that Michael Angelo said were good enough for 
heaven." 

"All right," said one of the jovial tourists, looking 

at his watch, "We'll trust his judgment. Let 'em run!" 

And as they were whisked away, after just five seconds 

beiore one of the most artistic creations in Europe, we 

saw the man who sat with his back to the driver nearly 

dislocate his neck as he twisted around to ask, "Who'd 

you say said that?" 

— 35 — 



And the "Limited" having passed, we resumed our 
leisurely enjoyment of the masterpieces. j 

Coaches and trams run to nearly all the points of 
interest in the city, and out on the hills. Gabs are 
needed for exceedingly enjoyable drives in this parks 
and some of the environs. Many fine excursions may 
be taken from here, including Pisa. 

Florence is the best place to buy marbles and other 
works of art, cameos, plaster replicas, mosaics, etc. 

We tipped at the pension: The admirable head wait- 
er, 2 francs, 50 centimes, (50 cents); his assistant, 2 
francs (40 cents); the chambermaid, 2 francs. The 
porter, 1 franc 50, and a half franc divided between the 
bus driver and the luggage boy. 

5 days m Florence. 

Pension |14 96 

'Car and cab fares 4 05 

Admission fees 2 30 

Tips 1 70 

Laundry, ices and incidentals 1 64 

Total $24 65 

Each $12 32 

Each per day 2 46 

VENICE, (Venezia) 

"Water, water, all around 

But the best thing about it 

Is, 

You don't have to drink it." 

We had an interesting ride from Florence by corridor 
train. Somebody advises reaching Venice for a first 
view, if possible, by moonlight, but I prefer hunting 
out pensions by the good old unromantic light of day, 

—36— 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 

SCENE IN VENICE. 



and Venice is beautiful at first, second or twentieth 
sight under any light. We reached it just as the sun 
was going down, — You can break off right here and 
read Hopkinson Smith's description of arriving in 
Venice, and all the rest of his enthusing "Gondola 
Days," ($1.50 Houghton, Mifflin & Co., Boston), which 
everybody ought to read before they go to Venice and 
after they come home, and even if they don't go at all. 
A swarm of gondolas was waiting, just outside the 
station. After a time one was assigned to us. Our 
hand luggage was thrown in, and we skimmed along the 
winding canals, while we repeated over and over the 
name of the first pension on our list until, finally, the 
man at the sweep understood.' Our list read: 



—37— 




The Rialto Bridge. Snap shot from a gondola. 
VENICE. 

Pension International, Via 22, Marzo 2399, Canal Rio delle 

Veste, (6 to 8 francs.) 
Pension LeWald, 743 Pondamenta Venier, Canal San Vio 

near Academy, (6 francs.) 
Pension Casa Bonin, Corte Barezzi, S. Moise 2112 (6 francs.) 
Pension Gregori, Grand Canal, (6 to 8 fi'ancs.) 
Hotel Rome and Pension Suisse, (10 to 12 francs.) 



At the International we were just in time to sit down 
to dinner with 24 lovely lady tourists, most of them 
Americans, with ne'er a man among 'em until I came. 
It was an excellent place and we enjoyed our stay there 
very much, Herr Lanscheit who speaks English some- 
what purer than mine, as well as Italian, French, Ger- 
man, and probably some I didn't note, is very near a 
perfect host. Rate, 6 francs a day for a stay of a week, 
so we stayed a week, and wanted to stay several of 

them. 

—38— 



There is much to see in Venice, but best of all it is 
such a beautifully, lazy, restful city. There are "Old 
Masters" in other cities, but there are gondolas to glide 
with you on liquid streets, past romance breathing pal- 
aces, and quaint carvings, and luxuriant gardens, and 
curious sights, only in Venice, and we reveled in them. 
We have heard of people being "disappointed" in Ven- 
ice. We cannot understand why. It was just as we 
had imagined it. Just as beautiful, just as interesting, 
just as satisfying, — but it is not for us to describe it. 

As the posters say, "See small bills," only with us it 
is, "See large bills." Read Ruskin, and Howells, and 
Hawthorne, and Smith, and Allen, and Stoddard, and 
Hare, and Baedeker, and Rolfe and Murray, and Sted- 
man and all the rest who have been inspired by this 
dream city to write, — for this is merely a practical little 




Shops on the Rialto Bridge. 



VENICE. 
—39— 



pathfinder, and has to do. with such things, only, as gon- 
dola fares, which are: For'l or 2 persons only 1 franc^ 
a course, 3 or 4 persons, 1 franc 50 centimes (30 cents); 
5 or 6 persons, 2 francs (40 cents), night prices, 30^ 
centimes, (6 cents, ) higher. 1 franc an hour when hired_ 
that way in the beginning, with, a tip, to tl;e gondolier 
of from .5, cents to 20 cents, and a penny or^ so to eachr 
of the old watermen, who are always \yaiting, to. hold, 
the gondola up to the steps, and help you. Qut.. , 

Little steamers ply, also, from end to. end of the. 
Qrand Canal, like street cars in other cities,, stopping' 
f:fequently' at landings on either side, and the, fares are- 
only 10 centimes, (2 cents) for any distance. Other 
little steamers run out to the Lido, where one can listen 
to the music, and lunch on the broad verandas, or go in 
bathing in the Adriatic. 

'An excellent band plays in St. Mark's square, or on 
the Piazzetta by the Grand Canal, nearly every evening 
while thousands of people sip coffee or wine, or eat ices 
at) the numberless little tables scattered all about. > 

iThe famous Venetian glass, laces and many novel 
cu^4os may be most advantageously purchased here. 
- 'A week in Venice: 

' <_. jPeiision, (laundry, e^fcSj'a dishes and tips included) .$18 80 

' Gondolas and steamei'S 4 71 

Admission fees and tips 3 40 

Incidentals 2 69 

Total $29 60 

Eacli . $14 80 

Each per day 2 11 

—40— 



MILAN, (Milano) 

The most modern commercial city in Italy. Cab 
fares and tram fares same as in Rome. We found the 
cab drivers easy to get along with. 

Our list of pensions: 
Pension Anglaise, No. 26 Corso Vittcrio Emaniiele, (6 to 7 

francs.) 
Pension Bonini, 5 Piazza Scala, (6 to 7 frs). 
Hotel Spluga & Popolo, Cor. Via Santa Margherita and Via 

San Prataisio. (7 fr.), 
Madame Papa, No. 1, Via Gabrio Casati, (6 to 7 francs.) 

At the Anglaise we found excellent accommodations, 
one of the most homelike pensions at which we stopped 
on our trip. From the balcony of our room we could 
look straight down the street to the magnificent 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 

CATHEDRAL AT MILAN. 
—41 — 



cathedral. The proprietors are English, Miss Alice M. 
Ernst, the daughter, who speaks four languages, is an 
accomplished courier and seems to be much in demand 
as traveling companion for ladies touring alone. 

There^is much to see in Milano, but our stay was for 
only two days and it rained. This was not, however, 
without its compensations, for we saw the famous 




Snap shot of the Cathedral from our room in the Pension Anglaise. 
MILAN. 

cathedral in a heavy storm with all of its curious gar- 
goyles spouting. 

One evening we listened to the music while sipping 
—42— 



coffee in the famous Galleria, and the next we studied 

prosperous Italian life, and watched a curious French 

pantomine, at the Eden Theatre. 

Of all the umbrellas we bought and lost in Europe, I 

think the best and cheapest one we got here. It is also 

the spot to buy silks and underwear. 

Two days, Milan: 

Pension and tips $ 5 SO 

Cabs and cars 94 

Admission fees 60 

Theatres, papers, etc 1 55 

Total $ 8 89 

Eacli $4 44 

Each per day 2 22 

LAKE COMO 

Dropping off the train at Como, we sent our luggage," 
by the hotel omnibus to the Grand Hotel Plinius, and 
took a cab to the pier for a trip on one of the little 
steamers up beautiful Lake Como to Cadenabbia, re- 
turning on the evening boat. The Milan pension had 
put up for us a nice luncheon which we ate on deck. 
Returning in the evening we found the Plinius a hotel 
of the highest class and were nicely treated using hotel 
coupons. 

The next morning we went on, via the St. Gothard. 
tunnel route for Lucerne, A magnificent ride over the 
Alps. Our tickets permitted dropping off at Fluelen, 
and going on either by train or by boat as we preferred. 
We chose the boat and sailed from one end of the 
beautiful lake to the other, past Tells Chapel, Mount 
Rigi and Mount Pilatus to lovely 

LUCERNE, (Luzern) 

We had the address of several pensions, including- 
—43— 



Pension Villa Anglaise, Alt-Schweizerhaus, Madame 

Trueb, (6 to 8 francs). 

Hotel and Pension Pilatus, (spring and fall), (6 fr up.) 
Pension Kaufman, (6 fr. up.) 
Pension Felsburg, (6 fr. up.) 

But our stay was but for a day so we took the hotel 
bus for The Hotel Rutli. 

A pleasant little hotel where we and our coupons 
were welcomed with exceeding great joy. We saw all 
we could of this lovely spot in the brief time our itiner- 
ary allowed, longing for a week or two more along that 
beautiful lake. To break the jump to Paris we stopped 
over night at 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 

MOUNTAIN SCENE, SWITZERLAND ("KLEINE SCHEIDEGG," WITH "EIGER" 
AND "MONCH"). 



-44- 



BASLE, (Bale) 

on the Rhine, where we couponed for dinner, lodging 
and breakfast at the Hotel Euler, and enjoyed walks 
and drives around the quaint old city, and then took a 
fast express for Paris. 

SUMMARY. 

Milan to Paris: 4 days. 

Steamer up Lake Como $ 2 00 

Hotel, Como, (coupons) 4 00 

Hotel, Lucerne, (coupons) 3 70 

Hotel, Basle, (coupons) 4 00 

Cabs, cars and omnibus 3 26 

Admission fees 1 28 

Tips 1 45 

Lunches, fruit, papers, etc 3 14 

Total $22 83 

Each $11 41 

Each per day 2 85 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " How to Get There." 

ARC DE TRIOMPHE AND CHAMPS ELYSEES, PARIS. 
—45— 



PAKIS. 

Arriving, as we did, just at six in the evening, when 
the traffic on the streets is at its heaviest, the scene 
might easily be considered confusing to an unconduct- 
ed traveler without the language. The easy solution 
is always the same: — 

Have a definite addi^ess; 
And take a cab. 
We had the one and we took the other. 
The porters at the station expect a trifle more than 
those of Italy, but ours earned his doubly, for he rush- 
ed us past the Customs Officers and picked out a good 
cab, tucked us and our luggage in, and helped us make 
the cabman understand the address, thereby richly 
earning the half franc, (10 cents), we gave him. 




A Boulevard. Note "Isle of safety." 

PARIS. 
—46— 



Cab fares in Paris are 1 franc 50 centimes, '30 cents). 
per drive fori or 2 persons. (A tip of 3 or 4 cents 
answers). By the hour 2 francs, (40 cents), in the 
city, for the first hour and 50 centimes (10 cents) each 
additional 15 minutes; outside the walls, 2 francs 50 
centimes, (50 cents). It is easy also to get around on 
cars, busses and the underground rail road and the fares 
are trifling. 

Taxometres, little machines, something like cyclom- 
eters, are on some cabs, which are started at zero 
when you take the cab, and you pay by distance, 75 
centimes, (15 cents), for 1200 metres or less, (3937 
feet or about three-fourths of a mile), and 10 centimes, 
(2 cents) each additional 400 metres, stops being re- 
corded and charged for at 2 cents extra for each 3 




Bus tops and two story trams. 

PARIS. 



—47— 



minutes. This makes short rides somewhat cheaper 

than regular fares. Our pension list: 

Pension Vesque, 31 Rue Vaneau, near Bon Marche, (6 to 7 
francs.) (Special: — Full pension during August and Sep- 
tember, 5 and 5 1-2 fr.) 

Mme. Phillippe, 7 Rue Bara, (6 to 7 francs.) 

Mme. Barre, 70 Rue d'Assass, (6 francs.) 

Mme. Guiller, 21 Rue Vallette, (5 to 6 francs.) 

Hotel de Famille, 44 Rue Madame, (5 to 6 francs.) 

Mme. Lance, 48 Rue d'Ulm, (5 to 7 francs.) 

At the Pension Vesque nothing but French was 
spoken, but we got along well enough. We were 
offered full pension at 6 francs, or without lunch at 5 
francs per day. We accepted the latter and took our 
lunches wherever we chanced to be, returning to the 
pension for dinner at seven o'clock. We got satisfac- 
tory lunches at from 1 to 3 1-2 francs each and good 
restaurants are everywhere. We found the many 
branches of the Etablissement Duval reasonable and 
convenient. 

It is not for us to tell of the sights of Paris. We 
had no trouble in finding them. The perplexity was 
what to reject when we had only a week for all. We 
used cabs quite freely and enjoyed the little omnibus 
steamers which ply on the Seine. We took long rides 
on the tops of omnibuses, (fare, 2 to 7 cents S which 
are a feature of life in Paris as in London. 

We stayed a week and here is what it cost: 

Pension $14 10 

Tips 2 65 

Cabs, cars, etc 7 38 

Admission fees and theatres 3 46 

Lunches, laundry and incidentals 5 44 

Total $33 03 

Each $16 51 

Each per day 2 36 

—48— 



R. 


i 

X ^ MS 




■:''^#r?: 





The'Grand Opera House. 

PARIS. 

BOUEN 

was next, merely to break the jump to London, and be- 
cause we could stop as well as not, for a peep at its 
famous cathedral and the spots sacred to Joan of Arc, 
and the next day we went on to Dieppe and across the 
channel to London. 

We had second cabin steamer tickets in our "Cook- 
book" for the channel crossing, but paid the difference 
and took first class passage. We had luncheon on 
board. The Customs at Brighton were mere formali- 
ties, a train was waiting, and we were soon in London. 
Paris to London 1 1-2 days. 

Hotel de la Poste, Rouen, (coupons) $5 20 

Extra fare on Channel 2 &0 

Lunch, cabs, cars and tips • ^ '^'^ 

Total $9 ^^ 

—49— 




Eastside street scene. 

LONDON. 

LONDON. 

// costs more in England. 

We got a cab easily enough at the station and it was 
a comfort to talk to Cabbies in English. It cost us, 
tip and all 64 cents to get us and our belongings to our 
first address: 

Mrs. Priest, No. 13 Upper Bedford Place, Russell 
Sq. But through an error the cabby landed us at No. 
13 Bedford Place, (without the "Hupper")- A very 
delightful little private hotel. It was nice, and pleas- 
ant, but a bit more expensive than the state of our 
schedule would permit, so we stayed only a day. When 
we got our bill we were much amused to find that our 
landlady's name was "Mrs. Toogood." We left re- 
gretfully and just around the corner, at No, 29 Mon- 
tague street, Russell Sq., we got a nice room for a 

—50— 



im^^ 


:^ fin 






j^ - - - - 





Policeman controlling traffic at LuJgate circus. St. Pauls in distance. 
LONDON. 



week for 16 shillings and 6 pence, for both of us, 
(about $4.12), and breakfasts were furnished when ae- 
sired at Is, (25 cents each). We did so hope that the 
landlady's name would be "Mrs. Goodenough," but it 
wasn't. It was Mrs. Payne, and a very nice landlady 
she is. Our lunches and dinners we got at restaurants, 
wherever we chanced to be, in London or its suburbs, 
at rates slightly higher than in France or Italy. 

Frequently after leaving our room in the morning 
we did not return until past midnight, which makes a 
long independent day for sight seeing. No. 29 was 
directly across from the East front of the British 
Museum and less than a hundred yards from the main 
entrance. Our room, while at the rear of the house and 
two flights up, was beautifully quiet, which is a great 

—51— 



feature in a city where the sun hops up, and starts to 
shine for all, and street traffic begins, not long after two 
o'clock in the morning. Our windows overlooked the 
beautiful gardens connected with the offices of the Duke 
of Bedford. 

There are hundreds of good apartments to be obtained 
in this vicinity, at rates about the same as we paid, and 
it is not much trouble to find them. 

- Other addresses which we had recommended to us as 
boarding places were: 

The Manageress, 41 Bernard St., Russell Sq., W. C. Rooms 

from 10s ($2.50) per week up. 
Miss Rutter, 9 Queens Sq., W. C. Rooms from $3.25 per week 

up. 
Mrs. Kemp, 2 Gloucester St., Warwick Sq., S. W. Room from 

$3.00 week up. 
Mrs. Hinde, 33 Bassein Parlt Road, Ravenscourt Park, W. 

Room from $3.00 up. 

Mrs. Wm. Morgan, 51 Torrington Square, W. C. 

It is very easy to find rooms, with or without board, 
or with only breakfast, at reasonable terms, once set 
down in any of these desirable centers. Hunting a 
lodging is really one of the educating experiences in 
Ivondon which should not be missed. 

Cab fares for single drive, 1 or 2 persons, 1 s, (25 
-cents), with a slight tip, (2 to 5 cents will answer). By 
the hour 2s 6p, (63 cents), but it is frequently hard to 
get cabmen to accept passengers by the hour, at tariff, 
during busy times. Taxameters are being introduced 
which may reduce short distance fares to sixpence. 

We used busses a good deal. They are a never end- 
ing delight. Splendid view point from the seats on the 



-52-^ 





' ^ 






l^^^^l 


H 


pi"-::^-- if^ckittsi] 


■\.^ 




''■% 


'^■lIKPf Shears 1^ (Blue./ 


^H' /'' — 




J 


W: W 





Bus top, CheapsiJe. 



LONDON. 



top, and frequent long rides in any direction are very 
interesting and restful. 

Bus fares begin at 1 penny (2 cents) and run up to 
sixpence, (12 cents). All depending on the distance. 
Sometimes when we did not know how far we wanted 
to go we kept paying a penny at a time until we were 
ready to get off. 

The regular service of penny steamers on the Thames 
has been resumed, under municipal control and this is 
one good way to see London. The fare, except during 
work peoples hours, is a penny up to 3 miles, and 2, 3, 
4 and 5 pence for 5, 8, 11 and over 11 miles. A round 
trip ride of 22 miles may be enjoyed for eightpence 
(16c.) 

The best theatres are fully as expensive as in New 



—53- 



York or Chicago. Seats in the pit when they can be 
obtained, are usually 2s 6p (63 cents) , but they are not 
reserved, and when we bought them we had to get 
around early and stand in line. This is not especially 
a hardship, for it gives one the very best sort of an 
opportunity to size up middle class London people, who 
are of a very nice sort indeed. I think we got more 
useful information during one of these thirty minute 
waits than during any other two hours of our stay. 

Pit seats are located directly behind the orchestra 
stalls, and would be called the dress circle in American 
theatres. It seemed absurd to waste this splendid 
space on cheap seats which with us would be only a 
little less expensive than those farther in front. In the 
best theatres reserved chairs cost from $1.00 to $3.00. 

In our week in London we saw a good many of the 
regular standard show places, galleries, churches, his- 
torical buildings, palaces and all that, but we enjoyed 
fully as much just poking around into all sorts of the 
odd corners of the famous old city. We met a nice old 
English Professor at Lucerne, who was there with a 
party of London Polytechnic students, who said to us, 
"Don't come and just take a peep at London. You 
can't enjoy that grandest city of all the world in that 
way. Much better not to come at all." 

"But how long must we stay?" we asked. 

''Oh, a year, anyway. Better five, and you can't 
really know it in twenty. That takes a life time." 

However we enjoyed our peep very much. 

Clothing and all sorts of woolens are cheap in some 
parts of London. The establishments on Cheapside 
are the most reasonable. If you need a steamer rug or 
■ —54— 



an extra one this is the place to buy. Gloves are also 
reasonable. 

8 days in London. 

Room, breakfasts and laundry $11 87 

Expense of trunk shipped per N. G. Lloyd from 

Naples 3 60 

Lunches and dinners 10 74 

Cabs, busses, tips 10 27 

Theatres 10 G5 

Other admission, (Most of the famous buildings, 

collections, etc., are free) 1 75 

Incidentals 1 00 



Total $49.88 

Each $24 94 

Each per day 3 12 

STBATFOBD, CHESTEB, LIVERPOOL. 

Our steamer sailed from Liverpool, so we broke the 
jump at two points. At Stratford-on-Avon we had a 
"bit hoff the joint," at the Red Lion Inn, and took a 
cab drive to Shakespeare's House, Memorial Theatre, 
Ann Hathaway's Cottage, Trinity Church and other 
points of interest, and went on to Chester to sleep, at 
the Westminster Hotel. The next day we merely 
strolled about the quaint old walled city, with its two- 
storied business streets, attended service at the famous 
old Chester Cathedral, and caught an afternoon train for 

LIVER, POOL 

where we stopped at Laurence's Temperance Hotel. 
We looked about this great commercial city with its 
wonderful docks, but it was tame after London, we 
were tired, and glad to sail for home the next day. 

—55— 



up through England, 2 days. 

3rd class, stop-over tickets to Liverpool $5 00 

Drive at Stratford 2 50 

Lunch at Stratford 1 00 

Museums at Stratford 1 50 

Chester, hotel, lodging, breakfast and lunch 4 25 

Cabs, tips and busses 1 00 

Liverpool, hotel 4 00 

Lunch, cabs, baggage, papers, etc 2 25 

Total $21 50 

Each $10 75 

Each per day 5 37 

TO PHILADELPHIA 

Per steamer Noordland of the American Line, (Main 
office, Sansome street, Philadelphia), July 2nd. We 
had engaged our passage at $40 each, a month in ad- 
vance, (the rate has since been advanced to $42.50), at 
Rome, through Cook & Co., but we might as well not, 
for at that season there seemed to be plenty of state- 
rooms coming West, and we got transferred to a better 
one when well out at sea. 

Only one class of cabin passengers was carried. 
There were twenty or thirty pleasant American, Canad- 
ian and English people on board, so we succeeded in 
making the voyage mighty agreeable in spite of nasty 
weather. The meals, cabins and service were satisfact- 
ory and wonderfully good for the price. The voyage 
to Philadelphia consumed twelve days. 

Customs: Through the kind offices of the purser, 
blanks were furnished us and our declarations of our 
purchases abroad made out and ready for the Customs 
officials when they came on board- Americans, return- 
ing from a sojourn abroad, are now permitted to bring 
in needed clothing, toilet articles and other personal 

—56— 



belongings, purchased in Europe, free of duty, to the 
extent of $100 each. When there is no doubt of the 
modest value of the things purchased, as in our cases, 
the examination is very simple, but elaborate articles, 
even if they do not aggregate $100 in value, have to be 
appraised, and the $100 allowance made on the pier, 
and all of this takes time. 

We found the U. S. Customs officers polite and con- 
siderate and possessed of much shrewdness and com- 
mon sense, but then, of course, we landed in Philadel- 
phia. 

As New York was our "final destination," and as we 
had been careful to stipulate before we took our passage 
tickets, we were furnished by the steamship company 
with free transportation, via the Pennsylvania R. R. 
to New York. 

On the steamer we tipped our waiter, $2, state room 
steward $1.50, stewardess, $2, assistant cabin steward, 
$1.50, other small tips, $1. We tipped no less, so far 
as we could find out, than anyone else, and a trifle 
more than some. Two deck chairs, rented, $2, other 
extras on board, $2. 

SUMMARY. 
Two steamer tickets, Liverpool to N. Y., via Phila. .$80 00 

Tips, etc. on board 12 00 

Hotel expenses, N. Y., baggage transfers, telegrams, 

cars, etc 5 96 

Total $97 96 

Each $48 98 

Each per day 3 76 

A rolling stone scatters some moss. 

GRAND SUMMARY. 

Preliminary outlay • $206 95 

New York 16.80 

Steamer to Naples, (extras) 11 00 

Naples 25 61 

Rome 27 57 

Florence • 24 65 

Venice 29 60 

—57— 



Como-Lucerne-Basle 22 83 

Paris 33 03 

Rouen and Channel 9 94 

London 49 88 

Chester-Stratford-Liverpool 21 50 

Home 97 96 

Total $577 32 

Each $288 66 

Each per day, 75 days 3 84 

Two, three or four persons traveling together can 
travel cheaper, in proportion, than one, by sharing cab 
fares, tips, lunches, porterage, etc. 

We did 75 days at an average expense of $4.00 per 
day. Any number of extra days devoted to the same 
points, or even untouched points along the same general 
route, could have been added, easily, comfortably and 




From North German Lloyd pamphlet " IIov tn u^t Iliere." 

WINDSOR CASTLE, AS SEEN FROM THE RIVER. 



—58— 



delightfully on from $2.00 to $3.00 per day each, or even 
less. 

A hurried tour, visiting many points in a short space 
of time, costs, of course, much more per day than when 
time is not especially considered. 

The expense of a vacatian trip should be figured by 
the day. 

For the convenience of the reader I include a list of 
the principal other North Atlantic steamers with their 
minimum 2nd cabin rates, for what is called the " Winter 
Season.'' This varies with different lines, but is usually 
before May 1st and after July 25th to Europe; and be- 
fore August 1st and after October 15 from Europe. 

North German Lloyd. (Oelrichs & Co., 5 Broadway, N. Y.), 
between N. Y. and Bremen, Plymouth, Cherbourg, $42.50 up, 
West Bound .$47.50 up. In winter and early spring months 
several steamers carry second cabin only, to and from Bremen, 
N. Y., only. 

Hamburg-American Line, (37 Broadway, N. Y.) to Hamburg, 
$47.50 up. To N. Y. $52.50 up. To or from London $50.00 up. 
To or from Paris, $56.75 up. 

Leyland Line, (84 State St., Boston). First class only. 
Boston-Liverpool, $55. and up. Summer, $70. and up. 

American Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) N. Y., Southampton, 
$47.50. Cherbourg, $50. up. 

Red Star Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) To Antwerp, $45. up. 
To N. Y., $52.50 up. 

Atlantic Transport Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) First class 
only. N. Y., London, $55. up. Summer, $70. up. 

Anchor Line, (17 Broadway, N. Y.) Glasgow, N. Y., $50 
up, 1st class; $35 up 2nd class. 

French Line, (32 Broadway, N. Y.) To Havre, $45 up, to 
N. Y., $52.50 up. 

Holland-American Line, (39 Broadway, N. Y.) Between N. 
Y., and Rotterdam. To Europe, $42.50 up. From Europe,. 
$47.50 up. 

Cunard Line, (Vernon H. Brown & Co., 29 Broadway, N. 
Y.) N. Y. or Boston and Liverpool, $42.50 up. 

White Star Line, (9 Broadway, N. Y.) N. Y.-Liverpool, 
$47.50 up. Boston-Liverpool, $45. up. 

Allan-State Line, (53 Broadway, N. Y.) N. Y.-Glasgow or 
Londonderry, 1st class, $50 up; 2nd class, $35 up. Montreal- 
Liverpool, $42.50 up. 

—59— 



In Europe always bargain for everything in advance, 
with a thorough understanding, especially at pensions. 
Insist that everything be included at the price. This 
bargaining goes against the grain a little with an Amer- 
ican, but it is the common thing on the other side, and 
is expected. 

Carry plenty of copper and silver money so that you 
can pay for everything in exact change. We met an 
old sea captain who said he carried so much ballast of 
this sort in his coat pocket that he had a distinct "list to 
port." 

Itinerary for Mail: Before you leave home, 
arrange your itinerary for your entire tour, and stick to it 
as close as you can. It will be burdensome, anyway, but if 
you don't have one you are likely to become so fasci- 
nated in each of the early cities as to overstay your time, 
and have to cut out some places you will regret not to 
have seen, particularly if you chance never to go again. 
Take a copy and leave one at home for the use of your 
friends. Something like this: 

Naples, May 14-19, Poste restante. 

Rome, 20-27, Thos. Cook & Son, 51 Piazza Esedra 
di Termini. 

Florence, May 28-31, Poste restante. 

Venice, June 1-7, Cook & Son, Piazza San Marco. 

Milan, 8-9, Cook & Son. 

Lucerne, 12, Cook-Schwanenplatz. 

Paris, 12-16, American Express, II Rue Scribe, Opera. 

London, 18-25, ditto, 3 Waterloo PL, Pall Mall. 

And so on. It is best to allow about 10 or 11 days 
for a letter from N. Y. to Italian cities, 9 or 10 days to 
French cities, and 8 or 9 to England. Letter postage, 
5 cents per half oz., papers and other printed matter, 1 
cent each 2 ounces. 

Toilets. Here's something every "first tripper" to 
Europe wants to know about and has worried over. 
Don't worry. The Europeans seem to have these 
matters very much on their minds, and for the sensitive 

—60— 



person, for the first few days after landing in Italy, the 
question is not so much how to find them as how to 
avoid them. In Italian and French cities, toilets, 
especially those for men, are everywhere and, often in the 
most frankly conspicuous locations. The arrangements 
for women are less frequent, but ample. In pensions, 
hotels, galleries, and at railroad stations, the facilities 
are satisfactory. Public toilets for both men and women 
can be found, easily, in any part of any city. If un- 
certain, ask the cabman. He knows. Or the guides or 
attendants in galleries. Latrina, (Lat-tree-nah) , will 
answer ior ItoXy, Lieit d''aisance, (Lew-daze-awnce), or 
Cabinet, (Kab-i-nay) in France. In Paris there are neat 
booths located on street corners, etc., about the size of 
election booths in New York, one side for women and 
the other for men. Women attendants are in charge 
and the fee is, usually, about 2, cents. In London the 
places are usually down stairs under the streets, are 
spacious, and in charge of maids and porters. In some 
of them wash bowls with hot and cold water, mirrors, 
soap and clean towels are available at slight fees. This 
is mighty convenient when you are away from your 
lodgings from early morning until late at night and 
want to wash and brush up occasionally. 

We were on no trains in Europe which did not have 
toilets at one or both ends of the corridor, inside the car, 
available at any time, although sometimes there was 
only one for the use of both men and women. This on 
through trains. On way trains, which we seldom had 
occasion to use, there are not alwavs toilets on the cars 
and advantage has to be taken of stops at stations, 
where the toilets are conspicuous, easily found, and long 
enough stops are made. 

There is a beautiful absence of false modesty on these 
subjects on the other side, (and though it may be unjust 
to say it, the standard article seems to be somewhat 
scarce in spots), so no first tripper need be apprehensive 
over these matters. 

—61— 



Languages. Let me assure the first tripper, beyond 
all doubt, that this entire trip can be taken, without any 
sort of trouble, with no language but English at your 
command. You are bound to pick up a few words as 
you go along. The Italian street car conductor, who 
blows a toy horn as a starting signal will not tip his hat, 
and say "Grazia" to you many times when you pay your 
fare, before you will know that it means "Thank you," 
and begin to use the word yourself and wish the New 
York street car men would learn it. But don't mis- 
understand me. Every scrap of foreign language you 
know like every scrap of information you take with you, 
is sure to be more or less useful. French the most, 
with German and Italian next. And don't you believe 
it if they tell you that your college or high school French 
and German will be "excess baggage" when you 
get on the other side, as so many funny stories would 
make you believe. If you have studied these languages 
at school or college, you will be surprised, and probably 
quite proud, at how much satisfaction they will be to 
you. In short, knowledge of foreign languages will 
not be so much needed in "getting along," as in getting 
the most out of everything. But, goodness knows, 
there's enough for a first tripper to see and enjoy with 
English only. 

Immediately you get settled in your hotel or pen- 
sion, write the name and address, in a large round 
hand, on the fly leaf of your guide book, then you will 
never forget it, and when you get into a cab to go 
"home," all you need to do is to show the name to the 
cabman. Writing a name or address in a foreign 
language is very often surer than trying to pronounce 
it. I had that impressed on me in Florence when I 
wished to return to the Pension Lucchesi, and shouted 
"Luck-Cheezy," (which isn't at all the way to pro- 
nounce it), at the cabman, until I was black in the 
face, before I made him understand, by pointing to the 
printed word. 

—62— 



We have tried to make all this very plain and help- 
ful and practical, and to avoid all vagueness. If we 
have omitted anything you want to know, we will do 
our best to answer your questions, if we can, and a 
stamped envelope is enclosed. 

The Rolling Stone Club, 

SOBellBldg., 
Medina, N. Y. 



TOURISTS' MEDICINE CASE 

A neat, substantial, compact, convenient medicine 
case to slip into yom' satchel, or for use in your home. 

Contains eight reliable remedies from standard for- 
mulas, in tablet form, (not patent remedies, but the 
same sort that physicians use and furnished to us by 
leading pharmacists). 

AWays Ready for any Emergency. 

In handsome, solid, screw topped glass containers 
with full directions on each. Every traveler should 
have one in his valise. Every home should have a 
case on the medicine shelf. The finest thing of the 
kind ever sold. POSTPAID, $1.50. 

THE STONN CO.. MEDINA. N. Y. 



COOK'S TOURS TO EUROPE 



THOS. COOK & SON'S Annual Series of Spring and . 

Summer Tours to Europe include all 

places of interest 

FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN TO THE ARCTIC 

The fares charged cover all travelling expenses, hotel accom- 
modations, incidental excursions, carriage drives, cost of 
sightseeing on a most liberal scale, and the services of 
experienced conductors who take entire charge of all the 
details of travel, thus relieving the travellers of all respon- 
sibility and care. 

The time occupied by the Tours varies from about 

FIVE WEEKS TO FOUR MONTHS 

and the fares, including first-class ocean passage on the 
finest Atlantic steamers, range from 

$175to$1,015 

Illustrated descriptive programmes can be obtained with- 
out charge from any of THOS. COOK & SON'S 
offices or by mail 

Tickets for Individual Travel, good at any time, over all Rail- 
road, Steamboat and Diligence routes in Europe, at advan- 
tageous rates. Also Letters of Credit, Circular Notes, For- 
eign Money, etc. Hotel Coupons good at over 2000 high 
class Hotels, and Every Requisite for the Traveller. 

Correspondence Invited. No charge for Estimates 



Established 1841 



THOS. COOK & SON 

261 and I 185 Broadway, 649 Madison Avenue, New York 
Boston, Philadelphia, Chicagc, San Francisco and 

125 OFFICES ABROAD 

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